How to remove grip panels from a vintage Remington Model 51 .380
Executive summary
The Remington Model 51's grip panels are not held by screws but by spring‑tensioned studs and cross‑pins; removal requires depressing the hammer‑spring plunger at the rear of the grip, pushing the cross pin flush on one side, and sliding the panel down and off the frame [1] [2]. Owners and gunsmith threads also warn that the metal backing plates and short posts can be sharp, rusty, or stubborn, so patience and proper technique are essential to avoid breaking hard‑rubber panels or losing small parts [1] [3].
1. Understanding how the grips are retained — why this pistol is different
The Model 51 is an unusual early 20th‑century design that intentionally avoids screws: grips are retained by two short pins or studs held in spring tension behind the panels and by a hammer‑spring plug (plunger) at the bottom rear of the grip; the system allows the plate and panel to separate when the plunger is depressed and the cross pin is pushed flush with the frame [3] [1] [2]. Reference material on the Model 51 repeatedly emphasizes that these are not conventional screw‑on panels and that improper prying will fracture original hard rubber grips, a frequent concern among collectors [4] [5].
2. Step‑by‑step removal — the practical sequence
Follow the widely shared sequence: first ensure the pistol is unloaded and the hammer is safe, then press upward on the hammer‑spring plug (the small plunger at the bottom rear of the grip) while pushing the cross pin above it flush with the frame on one side; the grip on that side will slide down and disengage, and the process is repeated on the other side to free the second panel [1] [2]. Several forum and preservation posts echo this method as the standard: depress the plunger, push the pin flush, slide the grip down, and remove the metal backing plate if present [1] [3].
3. Backing plates, rivet‑style posts, and what to do if parts stick
On many early Model 51s the outer hard‑rubber panel and the thin steel backing plate are not permanently riveted but are held together by two short pins; the center metal plate sometimes needs a tiny pry to clear a center post before the backing plate can be pivoted so the two pins drop out of the keyhole slots [3] [1]. If the pins or posts are frozen by corrosion, advise first applying gun cleaner or penetrating solvent and letting it dwell, then using only finger pressure or gentle taps to coax posts free — repeated solvent application and patience are the recommended approach rather than brute force, which risks breaking panels [1].
4. Reassembly, safety and collector cautions
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal: align the backing plate pins with the large ends of their keyhole slots, push the cross pins back to re‑tension the spring plug, and ensure the center metal pin that holds the backing plate snug (on some originals) is replaced if present; many posters stress checking that the grip safety and internal springs are properly seated before testing the gun [1] [6] [3]. Collectors often advise against unnecessary removal on pristine examples because original hard rubber grips are fragile and replacement parts can be scarce; reproduction backing plates and panels exist from specialist suppliers but correct rivets or posts may require custom work [3] [4].
5. Conflicting guidance and sources to consult
Practical threads from the Remington Society and other firearms forums form the bulk of hands‑on guidance and converge on the plunger‑and‑pin removal method, while modern disassembly guides for the newer R51 differ markedly and should not be conflated with the vintage Model 51 procedure; consult the Model 51 brochure, field manuals, and experienced restorers if in doubt [1] [7] [6]. The reporting here is limited to the sources provided; detailed exploded diagrams in the original Remington documentation or W.H.B. Smith’s Book of Pistols and Revolvers — both referenced by users — will give further visual clarification for those planning full disassembly or restoration [8] [3].